Two years ago, Dutch trendwatcher Li Edelkoort caused a stir with her declaration that ‘fashion is dead’. Her brief but pithy anti-fashion statement was a plea to approach fashion more mindfully. After all, what is a garment worth if it costs less than a cappuccino?

The traditional fashion system has been under pressure for several years now. Anyone who designs both a men’s and a women’s collection soon finds themselves staging four fashion shows a year – not counting haute couture, pre-fall and cruise collections. The purpose of fashion shows is being called into question, and online sales are putting traditional high-street boutiques under severe pressure. In short, the fashion world faces a host of challenges that affect the entire system: from fashion academies and creative design to the fashion press and consumer behaviour.